Fuel Rail Pressure Gauge
If you're like me, you've had your cases of "no start" issues. Whenever you have a no start issue, the first thing you want to troubleshoot is if you are lacking fuel or fire. Checking for fire is relatively simple, however fuel can be a bit harder to troubleshoot. You can listen to the injectors and the fuel pump come on, but that really only works in low volume situations. Of course, there's always the possibility of your fuel pump firing up, but not giving pressure to the rail. To check for fuel to the rail, you have to unscrew the diagnostic port and either see if fuel shoots out, or spend lots of money on a diagnostic fuel pressure gauge to check your fuel pressure. Even if you buy a diagnostic fuel pressure gauge; it's only temporary! Why not install a permanent gauge?
The only downside to installing this gauge is that it sits directly on top of your distributor. If it leaks... well your car will probably catch on fire. That is why you need to set yourself at least one day for this modification. You want to give more than adequate time for the thread sealant to dry. I left my car sitting for three days before I started it up again.
I bought the gauge and the adapter from www.9xauto.com for about $75. $75 can't even buy a decent diagnostic fuel pressure gauge. Lindsey Racing also has a similar kit.
Here are the only tools you need for the job. The gauge, the adapter, some wrenches (adjustable ones work fine), some electrical tape, and proper thread sealant. The gin & tonic is optional. Since the adapter is anodized aluminum, you need to protect it from scratching when you install it. Wrap electrical tape around it. Use twice as much as I did. I didn't use enough, so I have some mars and scratches on the corners of the adapter. Get your thread sealant ready. I used Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant because it can be used in fuel applications. Notice that it "fixes in approximately 3 hours and is fully cured within 72 hours." Squirt some thread sealant into the adapter and install the gauge first. Pinch off the fuel hoses to keep more fuel from coming into the fuel rail when you disconnect the diagnostic port on the end of the fuel rail. Unscrew the nut, and there will be a small metal ball. Remove this metal ball. Before you unscrew the nut, place rags under the fuel rail since fuel will most likely spill out. Wipe the fuel off the threads as much as possible. Give 15-30 minutes time to let any fuel dry off of the threads on the diagnostic port. This will further unsure a good seal when you attach the adapter and gauge assembly with more thread sealant. You might have to disconnect the inter cooler tube to get more access. After you install the gauge, I'd wait a few days before starting this up again. When you start the car up, have a fire extinguisher handy. If you see any drips, shut the car off immediately! Run the car until it is warm and stare at the gauge to make sure there are no drips. Here is the finished product. I had no idea I had an aftermarket 3 barr fuel pressure regulator until I installed this gauge! Note the scratches from not using enough electrical tape.
